Friday, May 16, 2014

Back to the Islands: Eating our way through Seoul + Park Hyatt Seoul

1. Introduction
2. Korean Air First Class SFO-ICN, British Airways lounge at SFO
3. Eating our way through Seoul + Park Hyatt Seoul
4. Korean Air First Class ICN-CMB-MLE, Korean Air First Class Lounge at ICN
5. Back to the Islands: Cocoa Island by COMO
6. Cathay Pacific Business Class MLE-HKG-SFO, CX lounges at HKG
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After landing we were out of the airport terminal in just 15-20 minutes since there wasn't much a line at immigration and we had carried-on our luggage. I had done some research beforehand on how to best get to the Park Hyatt. There are three main options which are to take a cab (approx. ~$75 flat rate), take the subway, or to take either the Korean Air or CALT airport limousine buses.

The subway requires a few transfers which isn't ideal if you have luggage with you, so we decided on the airport bus which is very reasonably priced at ~$16 per person and takes about an hour depending on traffic. If you take the CALT bus they drop you off at the CALT bus terminal which is in walking distance to the hotel if you know where you're going. Alternatively, you can take a cab for the short ride and the hotel will pick up the fare.

We ended up using the bus and would highly recommend it. They have buses leaving every 15 minutes and the seats are really comfortable. If you decide on this option for your return, you can buy tickets through the concierge charged to your room (more points!), and they will drop you off at the CALT terminal in the house car. If you're flying Korean Air, you can even check-in your bags and receive boarding passes at the terminal.

CALT airport bus




For our 2 night stay in Seoul I had been noodling between the Park Hyatt and the Conrad. I had heard the PH isn't in as good a location as the Conrad, and as a Hyatt Platinum I wouldn't be receiving free breakfast as I would as a HH Gold. But with no better use in mind for a Chase Anniversary night later this year I ultimately decided on the PH, and used 15,000 points for the 2nd night. Overall, great value as rooms were pricing out at $400+ during that time.

We arrived at the hotel around 7pm and headed up to the 24th floor reception to check-in. I had done some homework and knew to expect this - guest floors can only be accessed through this floor so you have to go up to go back down. It's a minor inconvenience but we got used to it by the end of our stay.

The hotel is located at the corner of a busy intersection in Gangnam and has an interesting layout to say the least. As a lowly Platinum I didn't receive any upgrades and was assigned to room 1501. The front desk clerk that checked us in showed us to the room, and because I'm a very light sleeper I was concerned with the proximity to the elevators. In fact, the room is positioned in a weird way such that your head while sleeping is basically pressed up against the wall where the elevators are located just a few feet away.

Well, they must have some serious insulation because across the two days we did not hear the elevators at all or even talking/chatter from people at the elevators once. There are only about 10 rooms per floor, so it helps that there isn't a lot of foot traffic. If anything, there is some noise coming from the street through the windows, and I asked for ear plugs for this which they were happy to provide.

The room layout is also...interesting. The shape of the building is very angular so inside there are a lot of edges, which makes for some nooks and crannies especially near the shower/tub area. The room is indeed very modern and sleek in the traditional Park Hyatt design, features a lot of natural light when the blinds are lifted (but also not much privacy with office buildings surrounding, so make sure you're dressed), Asian-style toilet with heated seat, and blazing fast internet. Service at the hotel was really fantastic across all of our interactions with the staff members.

Park Hyatt Seoul hotel entrance


Bedroom, wall is adjacent to the elevator bank


Sink/vanity


Tub/shower area


View from the room


Welcome letter


Neither of us had slept much on the flight so we were ready to pass out - but it was only about 8pm and we knew that sleeping now would mean prolonging the jet lag. We needed go out for a bit to fight the jet lag, and what better way to do that than by stuffing our faces with beef. We had done some research on places that we wanted to try, and Mapo Sutbul Galbi was one of them. It's located just a 10-minute cab ride from the hotel in the Apujeong neighborhood, and we confirmed our choice with the staff at the hotel who gave the thumbs up from the local perspective.

We're used to taking public transport or walking places, but everyone kept telling us to just take a cab which we did. It was only a $5 ride so pretty reasonably priced, and as we would find out over the next couple days the subway stations are huge, so for short distances cabs make a lot of sense since so much time is spent just getting in/out of the subway stations.

The galbi at the restaurant was amazing - they do all of the cooking for you which involves constantly changing the metal cooking rack I presume to make sure it doesn't get too hot and overcook the meat. At home we're used to eating Korean BBQ with huge bowls of rice, but here it's a bit lighter and just wrapped in lettuce. They also don't salt or season the meat at all, so my first piece left me a bit appalled at how plain albeit delicious and fatty the meat was. But I soon realized that was why they had given us each a bowl of salt to season each piece individually. I also ordered naengmyon (cold noodles) which were very refreshing.

First meal, Korean BBQ


Cooking the galbi


Naengmyon cold noodles


The next day we woke up for a full day of sightseeing. It was actually a funny feeling not having breakfast available for free at the hotel - I joked to my wife that it was the first time in years that I could remember that being the case. Happy to report that we survived - grabbing ramen for breakfast one day at Coex Mall, and the other day by eating at Paris Baguette which we have here in the Bay Area, but was even better over in Seoul.

We took the subway over to the palace which took about an hour with the transfers. There was a Korean ginseng soup place that we wanted to try that was apparently near the palace, but we had a hard time navigating our way there. In general, Korea isn't quite as English-friendly as a place like Hong Kong, which led to multiple instances of getting lost.

Well we lucked out in that we stumbled on a really long line filled with locals - and when in doubt, just get in the long line outside a restaurant because chances are that they serve really good food. We followed this mantra a couple times during the trip and it never failed us.

If you go, don't be intimated by the line as we started out at the very back with literally 100+ people ahead of us, and were inside eating within 20 minutes. There's only a couple choices so food is prepared very quickly and there are a lot ot seats inside so things move fast. The ginseng soup was fantastic - I remember i had it for the 1st time in my life when i went to Korea several years back and really liked it. There were huge chunks of ginseng inside and they even have an option of with black chicken.

Taking the subway over to the palace


Korean gingseng soup (sorry but don't have a phonetic spelling of the name, help!)


When in doubt, just get in line




Ginseng soup with black chicken


After lunch we headed over to the palace, and we had timed it to arrive for the 1:30pm free tour. Warning: this place is huge, and CROWDED. During the tour, my wife actually got separated from the group, which led me to have a mild freaking out session and went to look for her, which was like trying to find a needle in a hay stack. This was unfortunately the week before watching Louis CK's subway rules episode, or I would have known better and stayed in one place and instead did the opposite by leaving to look for her

So many people, don't get lost!




Scene from some Korean drama that my wife made me re-enact with her




Blue house = Korean white house


After our dose of culture, it was time to reward ourselves with some shopping and eating. We headed over to Myong Dong which is one of the main tourist areas - it's an open air market with many shops and street food carts. My wife spent the next few hours visiting every store, and I spent the next few hours visiting every food cart.

Fried egg on butter toast


Hot dogs and toppoki


So good, but so spicy!


Fried potato chip covered in cheezy dust


Sausage on a stick


Bingsu at Pascucci coffee shop


We had grand intentions to party the night away in Gangnam, but jet leg and food coma hit us like a ton of bricks and we were in bed by 10pm. We managed to sleep in until around 8am, and headed out to Coex mall to check things out. We had read that you could spend an entire day at Coex, but that's probably true only if you visit the aquarium and catch a movie as we were in/out in about an hour.

Coex underground mall


Breakfast of champions


Coex Aquiarium


Hobby store with various airplane models for those collectors out there




Afterwards we finished packing up back at the hotel, then checked out and left our bags at the concierge since our flight wasn't until 11pm. I also confirmed the purchase of our return bus tickets at the front desk which was good since it took care of our transportation back to the airport, and it gave me a good sense for how much cash I had left to spend.

We then headed over to Dongdaemun and the wife did some hardcore shopping at Doota tower. We grabbed more street food and then walked around briefly at Namdaemun market.

Walking around Dongdaemun


Also known as the Justin Bieber collection


Doota tower


Walking along the stream


Can't stop eating


Corn dog covered in fried potatoes


Red bean (I think?) sweet pancake


At this point, we were absolutely exhausted and decide to take a break by checking out out the Gourmet 494 food court at the Galleria mall in Apujeong since we had read good things about it. There are a ton of international options here - everything from pizza to Korean to Mexican to even Cheesecake Factory. We love bingsu (korean shaved ice) and wanted one last fix before leaving town.

Gourmet 494 food court at the Galleria mall


Cakes


One last bingsu fix


Ironically, despite all of our research we somehow missed the fact that one of the best bingsu's in town is actually at the Park Hyatt and had been under our noses the entire time! We had even gone back to the hotel to get our bags and could have eaten there, but didn't realize this until we were already at the airport, ah well. Overall, a great short trip to Seoul and very comfortable stay at the Park Hyatt.

Back to the Islands: Korean Air First Class SFO-ICN, British Airways lounge at SFO

1. Introduction
2. Korean Air First Class SFO-ICN, British Airways lounge at SFO
3. Eating our way through Seoul + Park Hyatt Seoul
4. Korean Air First Class ICN-CMB-MLE, Korean Air First Class Lounge at ICN
5. Back to the Islands: Cocoa Island by COMO
6. Cathay Pacific Business Class MLE-HKG-SFO, CX lounges at HKG
______________________________________________________________

Our flight was scheduled for departure at 1:30pm so we left for the airport around 11am and arrived to the check-in counter by 11:30am. I had already checked-in online so they just verified the credit card used for booking as well as my return itinerary since I had only booked a one-way on Korean Air to the Maldives.

The A side of the international security was very empty and within minutes we were at the British Airways lounge which is shared with Korean Air. The lounge feels very new with open space and lots of natural light. There are two seating areas, one for Business class and a separate one for First class passengers. Each has a pretty decent selection of food (soup, sandwiches, cookies) and drinks.

This was definitely one of the nicer domestic lounges I've been to, and one of the best parts is being able to board directly from the lounge. The only other time we've been able to do this was from the Emirates First Class Terminal in DXB and it makes the whole boarding experience so much less hectic - hopefully this is something that more and more airlines will adopt.

British Airways lounge at SFO - Business Class area






First Class seating area




View from the lounge - our ride to ICN


Boarding straight from the lounge


We boarded and were shown to our seats, 2D/G. There are 8 F seats in the cabin and the load was very light today. In fact, we were the only customers, with the 2 seats in front of us reserved for crew rest, so we basically had the cabin to ourselves.

This was actually our 2nd time in Korean Air F, the 1st coming on our return home BKK-ICN-SFO as part of the the ex-RGN round 1 fares. Back then I was still a budding trip reporter and it was only the 2nd F flight I'd ever taken.

Now with a few more flights under my belt, I'm glad that I had another chance to experience Korean Air and I absolutely loved it. The food and service were among the best we've ever had, just the right amount of warmth and proactivity without feeling like they are always keeping an eye on you. At a couple points during the flight it almost felt like they read my mind. In one instance I was ready for a snack, and before I could push the call button the flight attendant showed up with freshly baked cookies. No way I could say no to that!

In my opinion there are only a couple of things that are holding them back from being among the cream of the crop. First is the hard product which reminds me a lot of the TG A380 F suite - certainly good but not world class. There's more than enough space and the bed is quite comfortable, but there isn't a lot of privacy. Also the IFE really didn't have much of a selection of movies, and there is only 1 bathroom which became a bit hectic just between the 2 of us and the crew. Can't imagine what it would be like with a full crowd.

Korean Air Kosmo Suite








IFE controller


Reading lamp


Seat controls


Shortly after take-off the flight attendants came by to pass out pajamas and amenity kits. Both were the same brands that we had received on our flights a couple years ago.





The first meal was lunch and it was spectacular. It started with a small amuse bouche, followed by caviar service (including a proper caviar spoon for the purists), a delicious soup, hand-prepared salad from the cart, and delicious tenderloin of beef that was a true medium rare as requested. This was then followed by cheese, fruit, and lastly red velvet cake with ice cream.

At the end of the meal I honestly couldn't move and food coma set in immediately. I requested turn down service and got comfortable but just couldn't sleep as the cabin was way too hot. Why don't seats these day have air vents!? I ended up tossing and turning for a couple hours before giving up on trying to sleep.

Lunch menu


Snack/Dinner menu


Table setting


Amouse bouche


Breads


Caviar service


Potato cream soup


Salad - love that it has anchovies


Beef tenderloin - perfect medium rare


Cheese selection


Red velvet cake


So instead of sleeping I did the next best thing, and got right back to eating. The snack menu has just a couple options with ramen and cookies, and I sampled them both. The flight attendants were great at checking in at regular intervals and always making sure we had refills of bottled water throughout the flight.

Turndown service, really comfortable bedding


Ramen snack, spicy!


Before landing we had one more which was much smaller but again really delicious, highlighted by the sea bass.

I'm a sucker for a good focaccia


Chilean sea bass with purple cauliflower


As you can tell, I'm a huge fan of Korean Air, and overall we had a fantastic flight. Between the quality of the flight and the wide open availability of premium award space, this has become the primary destination for my Chase UR points.

Back to the Islands: Introduction

1. Introduction
2. Korean Air First Class SFO-ICN, British Airways lounge at SFO
3. Eating our way through Seoul + Park Hyatt Seoul
4. Korean Air First Class ICN-CMB-MLE, Korean Air First Class Lounge at ICN
5. Back to the Islands: Cocoa Island by COMO
6. Cathay Pacific Business Class MLE-HKG-SFO, CX lounges at HKG
______________________________________________________________

Introduction

I've always been a creature of habit - when I find something I like I generally stick to it. I can eat at the same place for lunch for an entire week, even ordering the same thing each day. If you open up my closet, you'll find the same exact shirt but in multiple colors...you get the idea.

So after our honeymoon last November, Maldives was the only thing on my mind. It's the only place I wanted to travel to and I wanted to go back, like as soon as possible. Just as those thoughts were crossing my mind, Cathay Pacific happened to unleash a killer business class deal ex-MLE, and I jumped at the chance to go again this May.

While we had enjoyed our stay at the Conrad, it was helpful to discern what we liked and didn't like and use that information to help decide where to stay for our upcoming trip. A few of the key reasons why we ended up choosing Cocoa Island:

- Due to time constraints, we would only be able to likely stay for 4 nights and wanted a resort that was close enough for a boat transfer. While we'd be sacrificing the ability to go to a more remote location, we wouldn't have to deal with the logistics of seaplane transfers which would eat into the limited amount of time we had to begin with.

- The Conrad is a huge resort and is great in that there is a huge variety in the activities around the island, types of villas to stay in, and restaurants to eat at. But since the resort is so big, a lot of time is spent just getting around the island. Since we'd only be staying for a short time, we really didn't need that much variety, and Cocoa Island fit the bill with just 33 villas as compared to the Conrad's 130+, 1 restaurant vs. 6 restaurants, etc.

- Cocoa Island presented itself as a health and wellness-oriented resort which was appealing to us, with everything from a special healthy menu to daily yoga classes.

- And last but certainly not least, we were able to get a good deal by jumping in at the very beginning of low season rates for our trip in early May. Most of the resorts in the Maldives start their low season sometime in May, some early in the month and some closer to end. Cocoa Island starts theirs on May 1st, so we were able to snag low season rates for the 1st week of May which were 40-50% lower than the rates just a week earlier. By going earlier in the month we could minimize the chance of weather impacting our stay, and everything worked out great with just a handful of rainy bursts during the trip.

With that decision made, the only remaining piece of the puzzle was how we were going to get there. *A availability through Singapore and CX availability through HKG weren't open, so that left old reliable Korean Air which had wide open availability basically all of May. As an added bonus, Korean Air allows free stopovers at ICN even on one-ways which would be great for breaking up the long journey.

Let me just say for the record that Korean Air is the best kept "secret" of the Chase UR program. It's ridiculously easy to transfer miles in, they don't expire for 10 years, the award chart is competitive, and best of all their premium cabin availability is fantastic. I say that it's a "secret" because it's really not, as people have been talking/writing about it quite a bit.

So what's stopping it from becoming more mainstream? My guess is the booking process, which if you believe some of the bloggers has been likened to going to the dentist for a root canal. By my estimation, the sum total of the time spent making the reservation (which included calling in since I wanted a stopover), filling out the redemption forms which included creation of a family account for myself/spouse, and lastly paying for the ticket via the phone system was approximately 30 minutes total.

Sure, that's more than it would take to book a simple itinerary via United's website, but it's also about 10 hours less than the time required to book a complicated trip that requires calling in to United. And every Korean Air agent I spoke to was both knowledgeable and most importantly very friendly.

So as much as I'd like to keep all the Korean Air seats for myself, just wanted to plug the fact that the process was not bad at all and shouldn't stop anyone from making this the destination for their Chase UR points.